16 January 2008 – Captain!

Last night was one of the finest nights of my life – and certainly my most authentic experience of Egypt to date.

”Captain” screeched for us to board Mary – an old wooden Faluka named after some American tourist that he had befriended some while back. I walked the gang plank and within moments, was wallowing in the sound of the sails interrupted only by the regular clicking of my camera capturing another square of time. I have started looking at the world in thumbnail view, storing memories to be revisited later.

The Faluka took us across the Nile to Banana Island – which is in essence nothing more than an enterprising Egyptian way of turning a simple banana plantation into a tourist destination. We ate bananas and drank mint tea all the time “speaking Japanese” with our “Click, Click” as Captain so aptly phrased it. The sun was slipping and as Twig caught another palm-treed silhouette, Captain squatted directly behind us. In silence, he had lifted his robe and unphased by our presence, was “making water!” Classic!

It was a spectacular evening. We gave him a “baksheesh” and were on our way home when he invited us in for a meal at his home. It was a simple home with a main living room lined with hard beds. The walls were peeling moulded turquoise, but we were welcomed in like royalty. After introductions to Captain’s wife and his children, we were hosted to a meal of falafel, bread, tomatoes and endless laughter. It was beautiful.

Another tough day in Africa.