4 March 2008 - The Blue Nile Gorge

The Blue Nile Gorge! – Much talked about, much anticipated. 20 km down one side and 20 km up the other. Only photographs can do justice to the mountain we climbed. What is most surprising though is the relative ease with which the team faced the challenge. We have been cycling at altitude for some time now, and through steady cycling and a fair level of mental preparation, we ate that climb up… one revolution at a time!

In fairness though, the incredibly beauty and expansive views across the gorge served to fuel our legs – who could not complete that climb when they had those views to nurse them up it!

I am now showered and rested, and having just finished my fourth macchiato for the day, I am like the cat that got the cream. Only I am not a cat, and am in Ethiopia where they have just started a 55 day fast meaning no dairy products or meat for a fairly long time… Respect. But mad.

On that note, I am a little sick of enjera (bitter pancakes) with shiru (pot of dunking sauce) and spaghetti with tomato sauce. Lunch and dinner and breakfast is either bread, enjera or pasta. Carboloading has reached new levels. What I would give for a big mixed salad, plate of vegetables and fruit for dessert. Not so much! In fact, I think I might just go for a stroll now and see what I can pick up…

Stroll successful! Picked up Ollie and Denis and a few toots with the locals! Ethiopian towns are one street wonders and entail everything from makeshift bars and restaurants (identified by competing Pepsi and Cocacola signs) to very general stores, DVD stands and trucker’s motels… And everywhere you look there are people of different colours and ages.

We had a long debate at dinner tonight over the Ethiopians. On separate occasions we met a German and Swiss group of cyclists that lamented the Ethiopian people and in particular, the children. I remember the hackles on my neck rising as our German friend talked of the children and their stone-throwing, demanding behaviour. My response to him – Go home! Although, I wasn’t quite as vocal.

But the children really can be ridiculously trying. Niall and Gareth were witness to me absolutely losing my temper with a twelve year old. Wherever we go we are thronged with children who shout “You! You!” and “Give me money!” My initial response was one of pity, but often these shouts are accompanied by flying stones and a tough climb. And one child can walk with you for no less than 300 meters as you pant up a hill whilst he shouts “You! Give me money!” with a sense of entitlement that quite frankly would tire some very patient people.

There are some endearing, big eyed, waving children. But the rubbishes who grab at your tent as you cycle by, undermine their presence. I have tried to work out the best response – silence, no, shouting… I have caught a child who hit me with a stone and tried to explain to the adults that this wasn’t ideal behaviour. But it is not my place to discipline them.

The most important question is why they do it. I don’t believe it is necessarily cultural – it is specifically targeted at us Farangis (white people). Ethiopia is not big on tourism and there are very few westerners around. Their interactions and understanding of western life is limited to the media/TV and NGO support. It is a tenuous link, but I wonder whether westerners serve to aggravate the problem by giving things to random children as they pass through. I have to believe that at some stages “Give me money” results in them getting money. I am not sure if this is the case, but I am resolved to be firmer on not giving handouts. I don’t wish to be callous and hard hearted with people who have comparatively nothing, but it seems to be breeding a sense of entitlement in this Ethiopian generation. I hope they grow out of it.