16 March 2008 - Ethiopian reflections

We cycled from Yebelo to Mega today – a relatively tough 105km.

It is a beautiful, but stark environment that we have encountered in the last few days. A straight tar road that disappears into the horizon, serves to cut through the red earth littered with acacias and ant hills. Birds are everywhere, and I find myself cursing my ignorance as I see each new vivid species. I understand that this is nomadic country and this is visible by the numerous herds of cattle, caravan camels and women wearing gorgeous arrays of coloured scarves and necklaces. The people and landscape is visibly changing as we inch closer to the Kenyan border. The people are also more rural and less civilised by western standards. The women are suddenly camera-shy, children clearly are not attending any forms of schooling, they appear more surprised by us than Ethiopians further north were, and our forms of communication have rapidly deteriorated with Amharic no longer being the language of use.

We are now staying in the town of Mega, 100 km short of the Kenyan border! There was a discussion last night over the team’s feelings going into Kenya. It seems unanimous that we are all very excited to leave Ethiopia. I am not sure whether it is because we have had some bad experiences with the people here and are looking for some relief from the endless begging, or whether we are excited simply for the change. We have had some incredible times in this country. Aesthetically it is exquisite and vast. The people have been less of an attraction simply because there seems to be a culture for begging so deeply entrenched in society, and because everywhere we go we are wary of petty theft and being ripped off with “farangi” (white man) prices. Quite simply, it is tiring, and has been a real test of patience for all of us.

I have witnessed pretty much everyone in the team, myself included (!), crack at some point. The shame is that generally we crack over relatively small things; so frustrated with being had for the fifth time that day, one guy gets the brunt of the frustration. In some respects, the environment has brought out worse versions of ourselves.

Today as I arrived in town, Grant was waiting with a gentleman that was providing advice over restaurant and hotels. We had a delicious meat and bread dish that was served in a hot cauldron brought to us over the coals. It was incredible. And made more so by the good prices and lovely big man that ran the restaurant. His surprise at receiving a tip for his efforts was refreshingly awesome.

On the other hand, our “friend” that was helping us out suddenly turned around asking for 10 birr for his efforts. No act of kindness in Ethiopia comes without a “Give me money” afterwards. Reading this may make me sound a little like a stingy cow, but it is so frustrating.

Daily we try to control our frustration. Daily I try and work out the reasons behind the ingrained begging culture. Daily I come up with little solutions and find myself despairing for a country that seems to have been torn at the seams and in my mind, negative as I may sound, doesn’t seem to have much hope. I am not sure who is to blame, and I know that the NGOS that try and support these people are doing incredible work. Talking from small experiences from the back of a bicycle, the social fabric appears broken and I don’t know what will restore it.

Perhaps it is unfair for us to comment as we are seeing a very specific aspect of Ethiopia as we pass through. However, the team came to the consensus that the best way to tackle the situations here would be to invest in infrastructure and education, and make absolutely sure that there are no hand-outs. Giving things to people is breeding a sense of entitlement.

We have met some wonderful, educated people that throw dirt in the face of this argument. Ethiopia needs more people like that, and I hope that they will prove me wrong.