26 February – Lalibela

Lalibela – a town created in the 12^th century by King Lalibela. He was a Christian ruler disenchanted by the dangerous pilgrimage to Jerusalem. So he decided to build a New Jerusalem for Africa. Lalibela comprises beautiful monolithic, rock-hewn churches that are wonderfully preserved and, most incredibly, still in use.

It was a sixteen hour journey in the back of a minibus with nonexistent shocks on a crazy road. It took us sixteen hours to drive only 600 km. What aggravated the situation was that it was a purported eight hour journey, we weren’t feeling superb, and one of my dear team mates had a bizarre stomach situation that left the rest of us in some levels of discomfort. This did however generate a degree of amusement as our two Amharic drivers erupted into girlish screams and resorted to sticking tissues up their nostrils... not so funny now, but pretty situational. Wow. We were bored.

But it was all considered well worth it in the end. It truly was a pretty mind-blowing experience. At Lalibela we joined Denis’ father, Dermot, and his mate Stanley, both of whom work in the tourism industry – they said it was like nothing they had ever seen. It is Ethiopia’s secret.

I am pushed to explain myself, but find its wonder difficult to describe. The churches are an archaeological feat – large churches carved down into the volcanic rock, with beautifully sculpted interiors hollowed out. Well-preserved decorations, frescos and sculptures, line the interiors. Most impressive for me is the fact that for the last 900 years these churches have been used, and are still used, as a place of worship. What stories those walls could tell.

Dermot and Stanley looked after us very well. Given that I didn’t know Denis before meeting him in Heathrow airport, it was great to meet Dermot and give Denis some context. It was also so enjoyable to simply relax and chat with people who are so involved in this project and yet removed enough from it. They were good fun and had many an amusing reflection on our team dynamics and uber-chilled traveller’s mentality. They did also make some constructive criticisms that have been invaluable in boosting some energy into the ranks.

There are so many people that have bought into this trip and who follow our progress. There are countless more that we consult in terms of logistics, bicycles, routes… and then there are the corporates who sponsor us. Having Dermot join us reminded me of that. It is very easy when on the road in the middle of Ethiopia to think of little else but being on the road in the middle of Ethiopia… and I become a little self-absorbed!

So I wanted to say a massive thank you for all the support… It really is an essential part of the success of this venture and I am so appreciative of your following our progress – It is so great to know that there are so many behind this trip and who support our cause. It is also news of people with continued interest in this that keeps me writing and recording what is turning out to be a truly fascinating experience.