A Country on Her Knees – 1 June 2008

Victoria falls is one of the most spectacular places I have visited. Sheer volumes of water eat away at the gorge that runs like a crack between two countries. Drenched from head to toe, we breathed in the weight of the water, lingered on its thunder and became camera-snappy tourists searching for that elusive perfect shot.

In Zambia, life has a level of normality. Business is booming for the man on the street as they benefit from the economic collapse in Zimbabwe. Catching all tourism that come to the falls, sharp Zambian craftsmen line the roads offering their wares with all the tricks of the trade.

“One moment, I just want to ask one question.”

You stop because you don’t want be too rude.

“Where are you from?”

Ah! They have you…

“Goeie more!”

Now that’s a pretty good effort.

We crossed into Zimbabwe for lunch at the Victoria Falls Hotel which has a really impressive view of the border bridge. The hotel stands alone with a quiet sadness, looking across the gorge at the bridge between the two countries; the bridge that stands between Zimbabweans and their basic rights to freedom and opportunity. Like the last line of defense in the devastation of a country, waiters hang around in droves, cleaners traverse the empty halls and fresh towels sit in immaculate bathrooms.

But there are no guests, one can only pay in a foreign currency, and the bills run into the millions…

Tourist security guards escort us back to the border post in a sad tribute to a collapsed state which is making desperate efforts to protect the remnants of a once prosperous tourism industry. Craftsmen try to sell their goods and succeed not because of the quality of their product but because of the look in their eyes.

I found the whole experience devastating.

On the other side, people are poised, waiting for Mugabe’s mess to transform into the land of opportunity. Victoria Falls, a world heritage site, a renowned tourist destination, will suddenly need shops, restaurants, service industries… there is money to be made in the rebuilding of a country. The question everyone is asking is “when?”

The man on the street can’t wait that much longer.